Leather Is Not Just Leather

I only truly understood that leather is not just leather when I began working more deeply with the material. When someone says “leather,” it can mean many different things – from heavy, vegetable-tanned saddle leather to fine lamb nappa used for jackets. Just like “fabric” encompasses an entire world – from handwoven linen and cotton jersey to 3D polyester mesh – “leather” is simply a category with countless variations.

Together with paradis collections, we wanted to develop a pair of leather pants for MARAI – made from Swiss goat hides that would otherwise go to waste. To do so, we needed a leather suitable for clothing: light, soft, supple – and still durable. The vegetable-tanned leather we usually use was too heavy for this purpose. So began a long search for the right tannery.

We finally found what we were looking for in northern Portugal – a small family-run tannery specializing in goat and sheepskins. Today, it’s run by Pedro and his brother, and they produce top-quality leather for international brands. Pedro was open to experimenting with our hides – and we were ready for the adventure.

The tanning process is entirely free of chrome and heavy metals and includes a plant-based retanning using tara. A light finishing protects the leather from moisture without compromising its breathability. The result is a skin-friendly, eco-conscious garment leather that’s comfortable to wear yet strong. It stays soft, allows the body to breathe, and preserves its natural temperature regulation.

The finished leather was sent to a small workshop nearby – where the trousers were made by hand with great care. The first edition was recently released as a limited run. More on the making in our next post.